The warm tropical sun shines high above in the clear blue sky. The
smell of coconuts wafts through the air as we scan the water ahead for
motion. A sliver of silver is seen and the excitement builds as we wade
toward our quarry. A large bonefish working the flats of a remote atoll
is unaware of our presence. The angler stands up straight, takes aim
and casts. An ideal arc is made draping the line in a gentle slope landing
a fly right in front of our quarry. We wait five seconds for the fly
to sink and catch our fish’s attention. The bonefish’s eye
glances downward. The angler stands perfectly still and twitches the
line. The bonefish can’t resist our hand tied “shrimp”
and lunges at the fly. The rod is pointed toward the fish and a palm
held against the reel to take up tension and set the hook.
The bonefish explodes away from the angler, and the sleigh ride begins.
The rod is held 90 degrees to the fish. The reel lets out a long screech
and the line cuts the water in a long arc. The bonefish heads for the
horizon, but is turned. He swims for the surface just a half meter away,
arcs, and aims to wrap the line around a coral head.
Again he is turned and now charging straight toward the rod. We clearly
see into the green/blue water. Our bonefish is enraged and fights along
the surface. The angler works the reel attempting to bring the fish
in quick to release him early, increasing the hook and release survival
rate.
From the edge of our vision a green flash streaks through the water.
A black point vibrates across the surface of the calm water. The motion
is too fast to focus on, but we know the movement of a black tip shark.
It will take a team effort to save our fish. “Stomp him, stomp
him,” Ross calls. I run across to the shark’s path aiming
to turn him away from our prey. The black tip makes a quick direction
change, rounds and begins a slower approach from behind. More sharks
appear attracted by the commotion, looking for an easy feed. It’s
now or never.
Ross reels in his fish, reaches a hand under the belly and raises the
silver body clear of the water. A quick photo, a last charge of the
shark and our hearts pumping, we’re ready to release.
This is saltwater flyfishing and one of the most addictive sports on
the planet. Once hooked on the thrill of a bonefish run fishermen have
been known to devote their lives to seeking out remote locations nearly
untouched by civilization in an attempt to cast a fly into virgin water.
In this article were going to present a saltwater fishing primer of
the South Pacific. We’ll discuss how and where to fish from a
yacht, dingy and for those considering entering the sport of flyfishing
we’ll provide an easy first time instruction on the equipment
needed and of course where to flyfish.
The information presented in this article is taken from a loop through
the Pacific aboard Mariah, a Catana 582 luxury catamaran. Normally stationed
in the Tongan as the flagship of the fully crewed Moorings charter fleet
we drove this magnificent vessel 1800 miles upwind, to the Tuamotus
to begin our hunt.
Flyfishing
Flyfishing is considered the most sporting fishing technique yet developed.
A hook and release activity that is a game of cat and mouse where the
fisherman must know his quarry well enough to predict his chosen food
source and place of feeding.
Light line, small rods, and holes for fish to hide inside increase
the sport. The fish is played to the fisherman where he is normally
released slightly worse for the wear.
Finding a bonefish
The first step to catching a bonefish is finding a “flat”
where they thrive. Flats are the shallow areas inside a reef in water
about knee to ankle deep and show up as white areas on Google Earth.
Bonefish feed in the flats, on the “sand” or downwind side
of the island. Generally the weather side of the island has flats of
coral that show up as blue on Google Earth, while the lee side has flats
of sand. This is because the complete atoll might be thought of as a
large gold pan. The light material is pushed to the lee side, while
the heavier material stays near the weather side. This means in the
South Pacific look to the North West corner of an atoll for a white
sand patch.
Bonefish feeding ground
In order for bonefish to survive they need a food source. When hunting
for good bonefish grounds look at the sand and check for abundant food
sources such as clams, shrimp, worms or evidence of life.
Nets and where bonefish are not
Bonefish are particularly susceptible to gill nets. Generally any island
that allows gill nets won’t have bonefish. In such areas consider
throwing a fly for the ever present trigger fish that also provide a
great fight. Often an island will prohibit gillnets, but in reality
the carnage continues. While walking the reef keep an eye out for bits
of torn nets as evidence of previous net fishing.
Fly-fishing history
Bone fishing is a type of fly-fishing. Fly-fishing history goes back
to early Europe where one of the first books to come from the new printing
presses in the 1400’s provided instructions on bone fishing technique.
Early technique included throwing a “cast” of flies where
six or eight flies were tied to a single line. Using a cane rod, gut
leader that had to be dried every night and silk line were all part
of early fly-fishing.
Today high tech fish line, graphite rods, composite reels and complete
sun protection accompany the modern bone fisherman. Still the sport
is basically unchanged in the last 500 years.
Fly-fishing mysteries
A mystery noticed by fly-fishermen is the “professional courtesy”
provided by sharks, to sharks hooked on a fish line. Sharks will often
follow and attack a hooked fish, but they never seem to attack a hooked
shark.
A second fly-fishing mystery is why South Pacific fly-fishing has never
taken off as tourist bonanza tour operators hoped it would. Probably
the main reason is the inconsistency in successful fishing expeditions.
Often a fishing spot will provide a steady series of hits one day only
to have the fish ignore the same flies in the same wind and the same
sun the next day. This inconsistency has left a poor taste in some fisherman’s
mouth and is considered one of the prime reasons the sport is still
relatively untapped in the vast Pacific.
Luckily opportunities for fishing in the South Pacific abound. If the
fish are not biting on flies try a troll for tuna just outside the pass,
or drive the skiff just outside the reef casting a popper into the surf
line trying to land a giant travallie or any of the many other reef
fish.
Starting your fly-fish experience
Fly-fishing is challenging but rewarding sport to learn. The cast can
be learned in a day and the equipment purchased at most fishing shops.
Predicting the fish’s behavior and building cast accuracy can
take a lifetime and is where the real skill comes into play. Some tips
to help get started are-
Most guides recommend taking casting lesson. The casting technique
is relatively easy and can often be learned in a day with a little
guidance, but it takes time to build a consistent accurate cast.
Practice in your spare time trying to land a fly inside a hula-hoop
from ten meters. Then aim for a hat, and finally a teacup.
Wear eye protection. More than one fly fisherman has ended up having
a hook removed from his face while learning the cast.
Hire a local guide. A guide knows the best spots and can start
a fisherman with a winning experience.
Buy a good salt water reel with a good drag, wading boots (booties
do not provide enough protection from shoe filling coral), and sun
protection.
Read “Bone fishing” by Randle Kaufmaun.
Light or heavy test line
The controversy about a light line fight for maximum fight or a heavy
line to get the fish in and released still rages. Most guides want to
see the fish survive the experience to be caught again so they recommend
a heavier line to pull the fish in quickly thus reducing the stress
on the fish to give it a better chance to avoid a shark attack when
released.
Best Fly
Choosing best fly to throw is a matter of much opinion and discussion.
Pink and white is generally a good combination, while chartreuse has
been a steady winner.
Tip-A #4 Clousemen (white) have been reported an all
around good performer in the South Pacific.
Best fishing conditions
In order to cast a fly to a fish we have to be able to see the fish.
This is done by walking the flats scanning ahead first a short distance
like five meters, then again about twenty meters. Look for “nervious”
water, or areas of disturbed water on the surface. Scan for dark spots
looking for relative motion indicating a moving fish.
Use the sun to your advantage. Ten till two is the best time to flyfish
because of the visibility provided by overhead sun. Walk with the sun
behind
A light wind from behind is considered near perfect conditions. Too
much chop prevents views into the water, and no wind allows the fish
to see out of the water revealing the fisherman above.
Toau
Toau in the Tuamutos has become a bone fisherman's hidden haven. The
large flats, beautiful surroundings, and reputation for friendly dining
have helped build a well deserved reputation. Flights are available
to the two surrounding islands (Fakarava and Apitaki) and a lodge with
two bungalows and transportation to the flats is available. Toau is
a private atoll with less than a dozen local residents that rigidly
enforce the “no nets” policy. Contact Alaskaflyshop@gmail.com
for more information
Sharks?
Sharks and salt water fly-fishing go together. Sharks work the shallow
flats and are often seen during a fishing expedition. Luckily actual
shark attacks are nearly unheard of. Most often a shark will follow
a caught fish toward the fisherman only to retreat at the last moment.
Sometimes a quick stomp into the water will drive the small shark away
but most times they keep their distance.
There are two specific warnings about sharks that should be kept in
mind. New born sharks and Lemon sharks should be watched for.
When walking in the sand a disturbed cloudy trail is left that
may attacks baby sharks. These eight to ten inch sharks could possibly
become confused and snap at your feet in the low visibility. If babies
begin to follow the sand trail simply stop walking and let the current
clear the water.
The Lemon shark has been known to become aggressive. Lemon in color
with two dorsal fins of the same height they should be left alone.
Fish books describe the Lemon shark as “easily enraged”.
Often the lemon sharks are seen drifting slowly through the flats
and should be left alone. Actual Lemon shark attacks are very rare.
Flyfish a shark
Some fishermen will cast toward the sharks because of the strong fights
they provide. Sharks don’t often strike at a fly even when it’s
landed right in front of them. This is because sharks tend to have poor
eyesight and flies don’t give off the electrical signal sharks
use to find prey.
If a shark fight is sought be careful of the line cutting sharp teeth.
The trick is to set the hook the instant the shark bites thus hooking
his lip away from the cutting teeth.
Bonefish or milkfish
Milkfish are often mistaken for bonefish. To the novice they look similar
and both give a great fight, but the milkfish is an algae eater and
only occasionally will get hooked due to a mouth snag. To tell the difference
between the two similar fish notice the position of the fish. Bonefish
tend to swim along the bottom while the milkfish swim higher in the
water column. Milkfish also have a tail that looks similar to a tuna.
Reports from local fly fisherman
Great
Christmas
Island-When pacific fishermen think bonefish they think Christmas
Island. The single flight a week from Hawaii is chocked full of bone
fishermen waiting for their shot at the many blue lagoons.
Good
Tao (North blind pass)
Makemo
Tepoto (beautiful, no pass)
New Caledonia
Fair
Vava'u Tonga (Blue Lagoon)
Bad
Apataki
RaoRoia (sharky)
Beverage Reef
Using Google Earth and navigating around atolls
The charts of South Pacific are notoriously inaccurate with some reports
of islands up to five miles off location. One trick is to compare the
radar return to the chart to get an early idea of error.
Approach islands during daylight and prepare to stand off at night.
Once within the reef a close up from Google Earth has become the chart
of choice. The color shows the depth and the accuracy is near perfect.
Some chart kits now have satellite images overlaid on the chart that
show most coral heads adding security to reef navigation.
New satellite charts tend to show most dangers within a reef, but it’s
still imperative to restrict all yacht movement between the hours of
10am and 2pm with a good sun overhead in order to see the green patches
indicating boat crunching coral.
Tip-Some satellite charts show large areas of white checkered markings
covering areas of the lagoon. This is where a cloud obscured the original
image and the area under should be considered uncharted.
What about the woman?
Fishing charters have generally been thought of as a man’s sport.
A few specialty boats now offer the woman activities while the men spend
the day in the skiff or on the flats.
Captain Allison Thompson (Yachtmaster/Ocean-Yoga instructor) leads
activities such as
yoga,
ayurvedic lifestyle classes,
chakra analysis,
cooking classes,
Bach flower study,
mud mask/hair oil beauty day, and
guided snorkeling
that allow the woman to have “real” vacation coupled to
the “men’s” sport. Contact
Captain Allison for more information.
Accommodations
Flyfishing is most often done in remote locations. While some rugged
individuals may camp on the beach most anglers will want to stay in
a lodge or better, a boat where the daily fishing expedition can be
made in comfort or even luxury.
We fished from a Catana 582 catamaran with air conditioning, guided
daily fishing expeditions, open bar, and nourishing home cooked meals
waiting at the end of a successful fishing day.
Basic starter kit
The kits listed below are by noted Polynesian flyfishing expert Ross
Novak who has spent years guiding, instructing and searching the world
for the best fishing deals. The kits listed below are recommended as
entry level kits designed to give the experience of fishing, with good
longevity of the gear without the high cost often associated with specialty
gear.
On a flyfishing vacation there are three basic types of fishing the
angler has access to.
Flyfishing
Casting
Trolling
We want to be set up for all three types of fishing so we can continue
to fish when flyfishing conditions are less than perfect.
Let’s take a look at the basic guide recommended starter kits
for each type of fishing.
Flyfishing
* Ross CLA reel
* Sage Z axis rod
* 8 weight sharkskin line
Casting
* Shimano Calcuta 400CE reel
* Shimano Travalla 5-7ft rod
* 60 lb test braid
Trolling
* Penn Senitor 6-0
* Stand up rod (6ft for a yacht/4ft for launch)
* 100lb braid (or for real economy 50lb mono)
Further exploration
The video “The
Search” is a real life drama of South Pacific fly-fishing
and worth a watch.
A River Runs through
It”, directed by Robert Redford has been credited with a
resurgence in fly-fishing and can be rented at your local video store.
Contact Yachtwork@gmail.com
to arrange a charter expedition in the South Pacific aboard a luxury
Catana 58
